Yup, with all the pedaling the last few days it was bound to happen – I’m approaching the great state of Texas – about 40 miles away.
My time spent in LA has been nothing short of phenomenal. After my last posting, I left Jackson en route to Morganza and with it the opportunity to cross for the Mississippi. Since I was probably 5 or 6 I have always been enamored by the River – a lot of that was because of Twain. The landscape of LA changes almost immediately; east of the Mississippi, it’s very hilly and rural – west, it’s flat and rural – 200 acre farms on both sides.
For all the jokes from a few about Easy Rider it was a little surreal pulling into Morganza and finding out that it made its name because of the movie. I gather this was not long after the famed “we blew it ” speech from P. Fonda. I am going to say this: I am sure I only know about maybe 3 people who have ACTUALLY seen the movie in full – or those that didn’t hear about it from someone who talked to someone who looked at someone, who thought they saw someone whose mom may have been at Mardigra with Hopper and Fonda. “Rent it – don’t Internet it…”* all rights reserved.
It’s an amazing piece of American history. On top of that it’s a chance to see Jack Nicholson before he became “Jack” – back when he acted (see also 5 easy pieces and Coo Coo’s nest..) Anyway, my breakfast the next day was really something. The owner of the place, Mr. Koles, was quick to remind me “Yu-know, this town of ours was made famous because of Easy Rider…” in the thickest Louisiana accent you’ve EVER heard – complete with a small smile and peering eyes over the top of his glasses. I was able to match smile for smile during my hour long conversation/meal with him, so it worked out. I gather he gets a kick out of bringing it up when out-of-towners come through…
Given that LA is flat past Morganza, I worked OVERTIME to get to Washington – which is sort of due East, west, north and south of Morganza. Unfortunately, I arrived at Willie Washington’s RV park a little late – the squirrel cook-off was over and most of the motorcycle crowd had left. I was though able to share a campfire and a good chat with Teresa and Walter from New Orleans. More breakfast soulfulness the next morning. Joe and his wife at the Washingon Citgo gave me the rundown of Washington. Here’s somethign really cool: I mentioned motorcycles; well when I was talking with Joe, he waved to a guy in his mid-probably 60’s – long gray hair, mid-height, complete with a large, very colorful tattoo on his FOREHEAD – ex-Hell’s Angel who decided to relocated to Washington. Joe described him as the nicest guy on the planet…
More endless pedaling yesterday en route to Deridder, where I am currently. I came into the outskirts of town around 5:30 and stayed at what has been the nicest place so far – Pleasant Hill rv and BICYCLIST HEAVEN!!!!!. Picture a well appointed Tee-Pee – I am serious. It is very much a close second to the Sleepywhale Hostel in Kaikoura, New Zealand, which was VERY close to becoming my home a few years back. Monica and Patt run a tight ship – clean towels, tv, open kitchen – $30.00, if you show up on a bike… I ran into a guy en route to San Diego as well – Butch – who I’ll likely be seeing off and on the next couple of weeks.
Before this week, I had never been more than 200 miles to Lousiana by car, plane, etc. In my travels threw the last few days, I haven’t met nicer people anywhere; not mention having eaten the best food thus far – thanks for the suggestion Kyle.
Texas, Texas, Texas… very much righ there, and will be for a while.
Trust all is well. Thanks for the positive feedback everyone.
Cheers,
j
